Remake’s first brand transparency report calls sustainable denim brands Mud Jeans and Nudie Jeans as Rockstars. The report ranks 40 brands against a series of guidelines developed in partnership with human rights, climate, water and waste experts.
Using the brands’ sustainability reports and other public-facing documents, Remake uses the monikers ‘rockstars,’ ‘wannabes,’ ‘offenders’ and ‘up and comers’ to rank brands on topics like traceability and transparency, maker well-being, environmental sustainability, sustainable raw materials, and leadership, diversity and inclusion. It lauds Nudie Jeans for its initiatives like repair shops and water recycling programs. Remake also lauds Mud Jeans for its use of recycled denim and a detailed Code of Conduct, which outlines the social and environmental responsibilities of Mud and its suppliers.
Reformation was included in the “wannabes” list because of its decision to expand its supply chain into China. The brand was awarded a score of 53. J. Crew Group Inc.-owned denim label Madewell was criticized for its failure to scale its sustainable practices beyond its Eco-Denim collection.
The report’ also lists “offenders” such as Zara, H&M, Uniqlo, Forever21 and Urban Outfitters. This list also includes Everlane which was recently slammed for its convenient transparency and the negative attention it received from then-presidential candidate Bernie Sanders for alleged union busting.
Streetwear label Supreme earned a score of zero, bottoming out on Remake’s offenders list due to its lack of transparency. Its recent acquisition by VF Corporation, the owner of sustainable leaders like The North Face and Timberland, may be the start of a more transparent future.